All things Antarctica!

Antarctica ________________________________________
Antarctica Jan 23, 2012 : Cruising on Oceania Insignia
"Antarctica is the fifth largest of the seven continents. It is located over the South Pole almost entirely south of the Antarctic Circle. It is a very rough circular shape with the long arm of the Antarctic Peninsula stretching towards South America. There are two large indentations, the Ross and Weddell seas and their ice shelves. The total surface area in summer is about 5.5 million square miles, which is approximately half again bigger than the USA. In the winter Antarctica doubles in size due to the sea ice that forms around the coasts. A Desert is defined as a region that has less than10 inches of annual rainfall or precipitation. Antarctica can be classified as a desert by this definition. In the interior of the continent the average annual precipitation is only about 2 inches, less than the Sahara. Along the coast, this increases, but is still only about 8 inches. Antarctica is the coldest, and also the windiest continent. The lowest temperature ever recorded anywhere on earth, -128.6° F was on July 21st 1983 at the Russian base at the Southern Geomagnetic Pole. This is far from any coast and so is the least affected by the warming effect of the oceans. The continent is buffeted by strong winds; calm periods are rare and typically last hours rather than days. A wind speed of 200 mph was recorded at the French Dumont d'Urville base in July 1972. These winds are known as "katabatic winds", when they reach the coast, they produce west-flowing ocean current known as the East Wind Drift as a result of the rotation of the earth. More than 99 percent of Antarctica is covered with ice, which contains about 70 percent of the world's fresh water. The thick ice cover makes it the highest of all continents, with an average elevation of about 7,500 feet. The highest point on the continent is Vinson Massif about 16, 066 feet and the lowest point yet found is the Bentley Subglacial Trench 8,200 feet below sea level. This trench is covered with more than 9,840 feet of ice and snow. East Antarctica (Greater Antarctica), and smaller West Antarctica are separated by the Transantarctic Mountains. A range of mountains that stretches across the entire continent with large portions buried under the ice cover.
Large tabular icebergs are formed at the coasts as the edges of the ice shelves and glaciers calve off into the sea. An ice shelf is formed where a large glacier or even several glaciers begin to float when they meet the sea. The largest of these formations, the Ross Ice Shelf, is the size of the American state of Texas. Ice shelves produce the largest icebergs (called tabular as they are table-like, flat, on top) as the ice is gently fed onto the surface of the sea before eventually breaking off and becoming free floating. There are at least two active volcanoes in Antarctica, Mount Erebus at 12,448 feet is the highest and has a permanent molten lava lake. The other is on Deception Island, situated just north of the Antarctic Peninsula, a popular stop-off for tourist ships where it is possible to have a warm bath in the volcanically warmed waters while being surrounded by Antarctic ice and penguins.
The oceans surrounding the continent are teeming with great quantities of life. Large numbers of whales feed on the rich marine life, especially krill. Six species of seals and 12 species of birds live and breed in the Antarctic. Crabeater seals are the second most numerous large mammal on the planet after humans and the population of krill has been estimated as outweighing the human population. The most famous inhabitant of Antarctica has to be the penguin. A flightless bird, but excellent swimmer, penguins live on pack ice and in the oceans around Antarctica. They breed on the land or ice surfaces along the coast and on islands. Best known and most typical are the Adélie and emperor penguins.
Systematic exploration and scientific investigation of Antarctica began with the International Geophysical Year (IGY). July 1st 1957 to December 31st 1958. 35 scientific stations were established on the Antarctic continent with another 15 on sub Antarctic islands by 12 different nations during the IGY. The IGY was such a success that the benefits of international co-operation seemed well worth continuing. The IGY was therefore followed by a year of International Geophysical Cooperation when the 12 nations (Argentina, Australia, Belgium, Chile, France, Japan, New Zealand, Norway, South Africa, USA, USSR and the United Kingdom) decided to continue their research. Representatives of the 12 nations met in Washington, D.C. in 1959 to draft and sign the Antarctic Treaty. This agreement dedicated the entire continent to peaceful scientific investigation. In 1991, 24 nations approved a protocol (addition) to the treaty that would ban oil and other mineral exploration for at least 50 years.

THE ANTARCTIC PENINSULAAntarctic Peninsula is the 1,000-mile long northernmost finger that points to South America, and together with the islands of the Sub-Antarctic, is the most visited region and the best place to view wildlife in Antarctica. It extends from a line between Cape Adams (Weddell Sea) and a point on the mainland south of Eklund Islands. The Antarctic Peninsula is important because research has revealed that the forces of climate change are having a great effect on the region. The remote polar position has resulted in the area being dotted with numerous research stations and multiple claims of sovereignty. The peninsula forms part of disputed and overlapping claims by Argentina, Chile and the United Kingdom. None of these claims have international recognition and the respective countries do not currently actively pursue enforcement. The peninsula is highly mountainous, its highest peaks rising to approximately 9,186 feet. The landscape of the peninsula is typical Antarctic tundra. The peninsula has a sharp elevation gradient, with glaciers flowing into the Larsen Ice Shelf, which experienced significant breakup in 2002. Islands along the peninsula are mostly ice covered and connected to the land by pack ice. The Antarctic Peninsula has the most moderate climate, with temperatures averaging from 5°F to 60°F. December and January are the warmest months and can have up to 20 hours of sunshine a day. To view mating rituals among the seabirds and penguins November is the best month, while December and January are the height of the tourist season and when penguin colonies are feeding their newborn chicks. The best time to see whales is during February and March.

THE SOUTH SHETLAND ISLANDSElephant Island is the habitat of chinstrap and gentoo penguins. Cape Wild is where Shackleton's crew was stranded while he took five of his men in search of help. The whole crew was eventually rescued from the island, but not before they had spent the winter. Snowy Petrels and white Sheathbills wander among the penguins on the rocks, snacking on the fresh guano and chick carcasses. The isle was named for its large elephant seal population.
King George Island is the largest of the South Shetland Islands. There are numerous international research stations on this island including the Polish Arctowski Station and the Brazilian Ferraz Station Admiralty Bay. On the western side there are Russian, Chilean, Chinese, Korean, and Uruguayan stations. The ice-free areas and coastal zones of the island carry a diverse plant and animal life. Penguins, seals, petrels and comparable rich vegetation make the island's natural environment that is a favorite for tourist cruises. Human activities on the island are based on the nine permanent stations and an airstrip maintained by the Chilean air force.
Deception Island is in the South Shetland Islands between Scotia Sea and Weddell Sea. The bay of Deception Island makes a natural harbor. The tall caldera rim blocks strong sea winds while the narrow entrance allows ships to enter but keeps out Antarctica icebergs and rough seas. The bay spans 6 miles. One part of the crater wall has subsided below sea level, creating an entrance into the large harbor in the caldera. The harbor is called Port Foster. The entrance into the harbor is called Neptune's Bellows on account of the howling noises produced when the wind blows through. Whaler's Bay is just inside the mouth of the harbor on the east side of the island. It is the site of an old Norwegian whaling station with crumbling boilers and a British Antarctic Survey base, both are abandoned. If you are on a small ship and are allowed to make landfall, it is the place to have your photo snapped while "swimming" in Antarctica. Actually, it's more of a dip than a swim, and a quick one at that. You wear a bathing suit (under your parka while riding in the Zodiac), then run in the water and stay warm long enough for a photo. The shallow area near shore contains thermal springs, thanks to volcanic activity.
Livingstone Island in the South Shetland Islands is covered with glaciers. Only the headlands near the shore are free of ice. Both Gentoo Penguins and Chinstrap Penguins rook at Hannah Point. Their colonies are right next to each other, but they do not mix with each other very much.
Half Moon Island in the South Shetland islands has a sizable rookery of chinstrap penguins as well as nesting Antarctic terns and kelp gulls. Whales are often seen patrolling the shores, and this small island offers stunning views of surrounding mountains. This rocky island is only 1.2 miles long. It is the home of the Argentine naval station Teniente Camara, which is operated only during the southern summers.
Greenwich Island is 15 miles long and from 0.5 to 6 miles wide, lying between Robert Island and Livingston Island in the South Shetland Islands. Remnants from the sealing era can still be found including an old trypot on the beach. The main attraction for many visitors is the terraced gentoo penguin colony with an estimated 4,000 breeding pairs. Predatory skuas also nest here and travelers are often witness to the struggle between a penguin protecting its young and a skuas trying to feed theirs.
Aitcho is a phonetic spelling of "H.O.," which stands for hydrographic office, a distinction this island has had for many years. This island rests between Robert and Greenwich Islands. This group of islands was charted and named in 1936 by the British Admiralty’s Hydrographic Office (thus the H.O.). The island is home to gentoo and chinstrap penguin with skuas, large black hawk-like birds that will steal penguin chicks.

THE ANTARCTIC SOUNDAntarctic Sound is at the northeast end of the Antarctic Peninsula and to the south of the South Shetland Islands. The huge ice shelves of the Antarctic continent give birth to mile-long tabular icebergs. The strong currents of the Weddell Sea conspire to bring these massive flat-topped bergs north into the Antarctic Sound. Dubbed “Iceberg Alley”, the sound has a startling assortment of floating ice in shapes and sizes that strain the imagination. Even though the 29 mile sound is often difficult to navigate, it offers the most imposing spectacle of ice we can expect to see on our voyage. The area is home to a huge number of adelie penguins, estimated at nearly half a million breeding pairs.
Brown Bluff lies on the coast of the Antarctic Sound at the tip of the Antarctic Peninsula. As the name suggests, the landscape is dominated by an ominous 2,450-foot cliff. The towering, rust-colored bluff is volcanic in origin and the beach is peppered with lava “bombs”. Adélie penguins, gentoo penguins, kelp gulls, and Cape petrels can be found breeding here and Weddell seals are regular visitors.
Hope Bay lies in the Antarctic Sound. It is on Trinity Peninsula and indents the tip of Antarctic Peninsula. The bay is 3 miles long and 2 miles wide. It has the remains of a stone expedition hut from a Swedish expedition that wintered in 1903 and the more up to date facilities of the Argentinean Esperanza base. It was at this base that the first child born in Antarctica was delivered, it also boasts its own mayor, post office and school.
Paulet Island is a small cone-shaped island that is the product of volcanic eruptions. Paulet Island is the site of an Adelie penguin rookery. Adelie Penguins have the classic black on the back and white on the front markings. Their heads are completely black with no white markings.

WEST ANTARCTIC (GRAHAM LAND)Andvord Bay located on the west coast of Graham Land. The deep, fjord-like Andvord Bay stretches so far into the Antarctic Peninsula that its end is only 31 miles from the east side of the Peninsula and the Weddell Sea. Surrounding the bay are icy mountains and alpine glaciers with castellated icebergs in the bay. Arago Glacier is at the head of the bay. Neko Harbour is the spot where you officially set foot on the Antarctic mainland if you are on a small ship. Hundreds of penguins come and go without regard for humans.
Cuverville Island is a small, rocky island in the middle of Errera Channel between Ronge Island and the Arctowski Peninsula on the continent. The Errera Channel is narrow and beautiful. Cuverville is home to one of the largest known colonies of gentoo penguins. The shallow water between the islands often causes icebergs to become stuck here, offering a fantastic spectacle when it occurs. Early in the season the snow makes it difficult for the penguins to reach their nesting sites. The penguins are not put off by this and they carve out their own “penguin motorways”, visible as intricate networks in the snow.
Port Lockroy is a beautiful natural harbour on Goudier Island on the Palmer Archipelago and is reached by passing through the towering grandiose cliffs of the Neumayer Channel. Port Lockroy has been a refuge for explorers and whalers for many years. The former British Base ‘A’ was occupied almost continuously between 1944 and 1962. It has been restored to its former condition and is now a museum, shop, and Post Office operated by the United Kingdom Antarctic Heritage Trust (UKAHT). It is now designated as a "historic site" under the Antarctic Treaty. Three people man the rustic historic building each summer. They monitor the effects of visitors on the penguin rookeries. Port Lockroy is currently the most visited site in Antarctica with about 6,000 tourists each summer if you are on a small ship.
Paradise Bay is a harbour in West Antarctica. It is one of only two ports used for cruise ships to stop on the continent. Paradise Bay is located along the northwestern edge of the Antarctic Peninsula. It is sheltered from the continent's heavy winds by Anvers Island to its immediate west. On a rocky outcrop of Paradise’s eastern shore is a small seasonal Argentine base, Almirante Brown. For much of the early part of this century the base was unmanned. It is presently home to a small contingent of Argentine workers upgrading the base to a working order. Also nearby is the Chilean scientific base González Videla Antarctic Base. There are many icebergs that calve off the glacier at the harbor's head providing a fascinating infinite variety of shapes and shades of blue. Ice floes also provide a floating resting spot for various seals and penguins that you may be able to view at close quarters. When the glaciers are not calving icebergs, the waters can be peacefully smooth, creating a visual paradise. The surrounding glaciers and snow-covered peaks are mirrored on the water.
Anvers Island is a 38 mile-long high mountainous island, which is the largest feature in the Palmer Archipelago, lying south west of Brabant Island at the southwestern end of the group. Palmer Station is on a protected harbor on the southwestern coast of Anvers Island. Palmer is the only U.S. Antarctic station north of the Antarctic Circle. The station is built on solid rock, consists of two major buildings and three small ones, plus two large fuel tanks, a helicopter pad, and a dock. Over 40 people occupy Palmer in the summer while wintering population is about 10. On many Antarctic cruses, Personnel from the Palmer station come out to the ship in Zodiacs. They board for part of the day to give lectures and answer questions from the passengers.
Neumeyer Channel is a narrow waterway nestled between Anvers and Wiencke Islands. It is a channel 16 miles long in a NE-SW direction and about 1.5 miles wide, separating Anvers Island from Wiencke Island and Doumer Island. It is one of the scenic wonders of peninsular Antarctica. The cliffs are not as high as in the nearby Gerlache Strait, but the scenery is much closer and therefore easier to observe.
Lemaire Channel is possibly the most famous and visually beautiful place along the peninsula. Enormous sheer cliffs drop straight into the sea. A narrow channel flanked by the Antarctic Peninsula on one side and Booth Island on the other. The mundane nickname of 'Kodak Gap' hints at the nature of the location (it brings out the cameras in force) without doing it justice. The channel is actually a fully navigable passage between Booth Island and the Peninsula, but this is only apparent once you're well into it. Ice can sometimes block the path causing ships to retreat and sail around Booth Island. Glacial calving is a common occurrence along the banks of this channel. It is about 7 miles in length and, at its narrowest point, roughly 1,600 feet wide.
Gerlache Strait is in the passage between Antarctica proper and a chain of ice covered islands. Named for a Belgian Antarctic explorer, this body of water is an ice-clogged channel that offers spectacular views sure to make even the most self-assured person feel small. On each side of the strait there are enormous glaciers in various stages of formation.
Wilhelmina Bay is a choice feeding ground for whales and seals and therefore was a choice hunting ground the whalers of the past. As evidence of this, the partially submerged wreck of the Norwegian whaling ship Guvernøren lies in a tiny harbour of the bay. The 3,433-ton ship caught fire in 1915 and was run aground in order to rescue men and supplies. The mountains and high glacier walls of the Antarctic Peninsula around Wilhelmina Bay convey a mighty impression of ice and water. Everything from calving glacier fronts to floating ice.
Petermann Island is the southernmost breeding colony for gentoo penguins. It is a small one-mile sized island located just below the Lemaire Channel. The dome of the island rises 650 feet above the sea. Adélie penguins, shags and south polar skuas also inhabit the island. The island is also the site of a long-term monitoring station for Oceanites, a nonprofit scientific research organization. It’s location in the picturesque Penola Channel makes Petermann a great spot for iceberg and whale spotting and offers spectacular views across the channel to the Antarctic Peninsula.
Marguerite Bay is dotted with ice-covered islands and surrounded by pristine mountainous scenery. It is home to the only known breeding colony of emperor penguins on the west side of the Antarctic Peninsula. This rookery itself is specially protected for environmental reasons and cannot be entered. There are several bases in Marguerite Bay, both new and old. Rothera Station on Adelaide Island is the British Antarctic Survey’s largest base and logistics centre for the Antarctic. It has modern laboratories and facilities for a wide range of research. Stonnington Island is home to the 1950’s era British “Base E” and the historic “East Base” of the United States expedition of 1939-41." (Thanks to Lyle for sharing info!!)